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I grew up in one of the South West’s prettiest market towns – but tourists always overlook it for flashier neighbours

Published on April 30, 2025 at 02:14 PM

FRESHLY-ROASTED coffee, a vibrant second-hand market and a medieval castle – I can’t believe tourists miss this Devonshire gem.

Tucked away in the Devonshire countryside is a medieval market town that is full of treasure.

View through an arched gateway in Totnes, South Devon, with a clock tower above.
The market town dates back the Early Middle Ages
Market square in Totnes, England, with market stalls and people.
Each Friday and Saturday there is a vibrant market
Two women and a man looking at pastries in a bakery window.
Up and down the highstreet there are a number of independent sellers

While most visitors heading to the south county beeline for the coast – and in particular the popular – they are missing out on a town full of and independent businesses to explore.

Sat on the River Dart, the medieval market town of Totnes is located a short drive away from its more popular seaside neighbours of and

But this little town has a lot to boast about.

With a central high street running up a long, gradual hill, Totnes is home to some of my favourite places to escape to, when I leave the capital.

Starting at the bottom of the town, there is acrossing the river directly to the high street.

Pretty line the river, next to eateries such as the Riverside Cafe and the Waterside Bistro.

On one side of the river is also an expansive green area, which is ideal for or dog playtime.

Back up on the street and looking up the hill, visitors are greeted with an impressive high street full of misshapen buildings and slate-grey roofs.

It won’t take you long to realise why the town was formerly dubbed ‘the independent capital of the UK,’ as both sides of the street are lined with , bakeries and sellers.

From organic to a crystal shop, there is something for everyone.

One shop, Stag + Seer, sells different kinds of incense and skin care products that “inspire healing and wellbeing in this fast paced modern world and encourage the ‘Ceremony of Healing’ in our day to day lives.”;

And at Leftfield, a Neal’s Yard Remedies heritage partner, there are and wellbeing products inspired by the

A final shop favourite of mine is Penelopetom – a go-to for grabbing special gifts, lifestyle items or even a souvenir.

Up and down the highstreet are also a number of independent bookshops, vintage and shops full of hidden treasures.

Key to town’s history, is a Norman which looks over the River Dart.

Visitors can learn about the history of the as well as enjoy panoramic views across the valley.

The famous market runs on Fridays and Saturdays and comes alive with stalls with one-of-a-kind finds – like the phrenology head, vintage and faux fur coasts I have accumulated over my visits.

Part of the market also food stalls – be sure to check out the brownie stall and the Lebanese stall for a giant flatbread stuffed with salad items, hummus and meat or falafel.

Aerial view of Totnes, UK, showing a stone bridge over a river, with cars and people.
The town also features some great places to each
Street scene in Totnes, England, with a castle in the background.
Watching over the highstreet is a Norman motte-and-bailey castle

Talking of , just a bit further up from the market and around the corner is The Hairy Barista.

With a brightly painted orange front, this coffee joint is hard to miss.

This pretty and chooses a different speciality roastery.

It is also great for vegans — which is a big thing in Totnes — as all the food at The Hairy Barista is plant-based, and uses mostly organic, seasonal, local, fresh and unprocessed ingredients.

Whilst it doesn’t look like much from the outside, back on the main highstreet the Anne of Cleves serves up delicious freshly baked cakes and of course, scones.

Nearby is also Roly’s Fudge – which whilst now boasts 47 branches across the country – all started in a thatched cottage in .

The family recipe which was passed down the generations, celebrates the making of fudge, with a variety of flavours and no oils or additives.

Also in Devon, is

Plus,

People relaxing in Totnes Public Park by the River Dart.
At the bottom of the highstreet is the River Dart – an ideal spot for picnics

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