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Swap the Cotswolds for a less-crowded but equally quaint weekend in Essex’s most perfect market town

Published on April 05, 2025 at 09:31 PM

ESSEX may not be the first county to spring to mind when you think of a perfect weekend away.

But before you head to the Cotswolds, think again – with beaches, forests, meandering rivers and idyllic villages, is a stunning alternative.

Saffron Walden town square with timber-framed buildings.
Saffron Walden's charming town centre
Aerial view of Audley End House and gardens.
Our cottage was set in the splendour of Audley End House and Gardens, just outside Saffron Walden

As the driest UK county, it’s perfect for avoiding those April showers, too.

Before I boarded the train for my weekend break, Essex conjured up images of Gemma Collins rather than a refined getaway.

So it was a pleasant surprise to arrive at our cottage set in the splendour of Audley End House and Gardens, just outside Saffron Walden.

If you are looking for a place to get away from it all, it’s perfect.

Arriving after dark, we explored the handsome red brick property – formerly the Victorian Gardener’s House – and it seemed to be gloriously isolated.

So, flinging open the curtains the next morning, I was slightly surprised to see an elderly couple taking a stroll outside the window.

Turns out the cottage is not just on the estate – but in the middle of it.

While Audley End House is a splendid Jacobean mansion, cared for by , a £1.25million refurbishment has transformed the former Gardener’s House.

If you have kids, you can watch them enjoy the adventure playground through the window.

Refreshed after a night’s , we explored the estate. The 17th-century manor has been visited by everyone from Elizabeth I to screen royalty , who filmed scenes from the hit The Crown at the house.

While the great hall and chapel are fascinating, it is worth visiting the servants’ quarters where life “down-stairs”;, Downton Abbey-style, is beautifully documented.

The Capability Brown gardens sit either side of the River Granta, crossed by ornate bridges that lead to the house.

The Walled Garden, restored to its Victorian glory, has a rock garden with pools that once was home to the aristocratic family’s pet otter.

In nearby Saffron Walden there were more surprises. Its Saturday market is often a place to spot TV chef . We admired the great artisan stands, but sadly didn’t spot Jamie.

Coffee in hand, we took a stroll to St Mary’s Church, which dates to Norman times and is still the tallest building in Essex with its spire topping out at 193ft.

Then it was on to Bridge End Gardens and its maze –  before a pint at the Cross Keys Hotel, also known for its great food.

The fun continued with a visit to one of Essex’s Tiptree tea rooms. I knew Tiptree as the makers of tasty jams, often served in little jars at posh .

But I was surprised to learn the Essex-born company also has eight tea rooms and even a museum.

We got the day off to the best of starts at Tiptree’s Courtyard tea room in Saffron Walden with their traditional breakfast, a Full English complete with tasty local sausages, bacon, egg and even some traditional Tiptree brown sauce.

They also serve lunches and afternoon tea complete with their preserves.

We went to Essex with some lazy misconceptions, but our trip revealed a side to the county that has totally altered our view.

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